How the hijab has evolved into a thriving fashion industry.

Nike, a well-known U.S. sportswear company, recently launched a sports hijab, sparking mixed reactions. Some commend Nike for its inclusivity of Muslim women who wish to cover their hair, while others criticize it for supporting what they perceive as women’s subjugation.

However, Nike is not the first brand to embrace the hijab. As the author of “Brand Islam,” I have observed a common misconception, particularly in the West, that Muslim women are indifferent to fashion. My research reveals quite the opposite: Islamic fashion is a rapidly growing industry.

History of the Sports Hijab

The concept of an official sports hijab in competitive settings dates back to July 2012, when the International Football Association Board (IFAB), the governing body for soccer rules, overturned a 2007 ban that had claimed the hijab posed a safety risk, potentially increasing the risk of neck injuries. In overturning the ban, the IFAB noted a lack of medical evidence supporting these claims. The sports hijab, designed to stay in place with magnets, has a cap underneath that remains if the hijab is pulled off, preventing injuries and ensuring modesty.

The 2012 Olympics drew significant media attention to Muslim athletes wearing the hijab, distinguishing them from other competitors. Since then, many lesser-known sports hijab companies have entered the market, predating Nike’s Pro Hijab.

History of Islamic Fashion

The promotion of Islamic fashion dates back even further than the sports hijab. My research found that it began in the 1980s when ethnic grocery store owners in Western Europe and the United States started importing modest fashion clothing along with other items for Muslim communities, leading to a thriving business. Before this, most Muslim women created their own modest styles.

These early ventures evolved into a competitive and profitable Muslim fashion industry. Islamic fashion generally includes modest clothing with long sleeves, ankle-length hemlines, and high necklines. The outfits are non-form-fitting and feature a head covering that can be styled in various ways. For women who prefer pants, the outfit typically includes a long-sleeved top that covers the buttocks and a high neckline, along with a headscarf.

Over time, national and international designers have joined the market for chic Islamic fashion. Today, Muslim fashion is a lucrative global industry, with countries like Indonesia, Malaysia, and Turkey leading outside of the West. In 2010, the Turkish newspaper Milliyet estimated the global Islamic clothing market to be worth around $2.9 billion. The Global Islamic Economy report for 2014-2015 indicated that Muslim consumer spending on clothing and footwear increased to $266 billion in 2013, accounting for an 11.9 percent rise in global spending over three years. The report projected this market to reach $488 billion by 2019.

The Islamic Brand

This growth has sparked controversies. Some designers label their clothing as “Islamic,” prompting debates among religious conservatives and Muslim scholars about what qualifies as “Islamic” clothing and whether such labeling aligns with Islamic principles, known as “halal.”

Critics argue that fashion shows contradict the purpose of a hijab, which is meant to divert attention away from the body. In Iran, for example, Islamic fashion is viewed by religious scholars as another form of Western influence, often called “Western Hijab.”

Despite these debates, the Islamic fashion industry has successfully launched marketing campaigns that align with core Islamic principles. A Malaysian brand, Kivitz, uses the slogan “Syar’i and Stylish,” with “Syar’i” referring to Sharia in Malay. By building an Islamic brand, marketers strive to align their products with Islamic values, incorporating head coverings into trendy clothing styles.

Who are the Consumers?

The question remains: What drove this rapid growth over just a few years?

My research shows that Muslims tend to be more brand-conscious than the general population. However, the fashion industry largely overlooked them in the past, possibly due to misconceptions that being Muslim limits lifestyle choices. Now, with a growing Muslim population, there is increased demand for modest yet fashionable clothing, especially among youth with significant spending power. Additionally, elite and wealthy Middle Eastern consumers who previously shopped for high fashion in Europe are now turning to local Muslim designers.

Indeed, the halal label on products, from food to modest clothing, has become a powerful tool in building a global Islamic identity. As my research indicates, consumerism is reshaping what it means to be modern and Muslim today, as noted by Middle Eastern scholar Vali Nasr.

“The great battle for the soul of the Muslim world will be fought not over religion but over market capitalism.”

Source:Theconversation.com